
Start with the top, not the frame.
X Series is for riders under 190 lbs who want more flex and a more compliant hammock feel. H Series is for riders over 190 lbs or riders who want a firmer, more supportive leather platform. R Series is our rubber-top option for all-weather riding, commuting, rain, and mountain biking.
Once you choose the right top, choose the build that matches the ride feel you want. Classic Chromoly Frame offers a more traditional all-steel ride character. Performance Alloy + Stainless Frame offers a more modern build and material package.
The most consistent pattern in support is this: riders get better results when they choose the right top first, then choose the build.
- Chromoly Steel Rails (hardened steel)
- Saddle weight about 520 grams
- Leather riveted to the frame with either copper or steel rivets
- Repairs, if necessary, must be done by SA in California
- Rails and frame are one piece
Series 2 Frame:
- Modular design
- Aluminum frame, tubular stainless steel rails
- Saddle weight about 420 grams
- Leather and frame connected with Nut/Bolt arrangement called a Chicago Screw
- Repairs, if necessary, can be done by you with a 2.5mm hex key
- All parts are separate
For many leather-saddle cases, support guidance points riders toward a gap in roughly the 6 to 8 mm range. The more important rule is this: do not over-tighten.
Many support issues come from riders tightening the saddle too much to fix flare, width, or early discomfort. That usually makes the saddle feel harder and can create new fit problems.
If the ride feels off, check whether the top is right for your weight and riding style, whether the saddle is still early in break-in, and whether the tension has been increased too aggressively.
- Series 1 NewSkin (Service)
- Series 2 NewSkin
Squeaking is one of the most common ownership questions we receive. It is usually a friction or setup issue, not an immediate sign of failure.
Common causes include tension that is too high or too low, leather rubbing at the nose assembly, metal-to-metal friction at a bracket or hardware interface, or rivet and hardware movement.
The usual fix path is to check the tension first, apply a small amount of general-purpose grease or light oil at the contact point, and inspect the saddle for loose or worn hardware. If the noise continues, support can help identify whether it is a normal friction issue or something that needs repair.
These are some of the most common post-purchase questions we receive.
The usual causes are the wrong top for your rider profile, early break-in, too much tension, or saddle position and setup.
Too hard and too stiff often trace back to top choice or over-tensioning. Too wide often shows up as hamstring rub, especially when riders tighten beyond guidance to reduce flare. Numbness can come from model choice, tension, saddle angle, or overall setup.
In most cases, the first thing to review is not whether the saddle is defective. It is whether the saddle was chosen and tuned correctly.
Often, yes.
Support history shows recurring requests for bent rail help, rear bracket replacement, bolts and caps, rivets, laces, and top replacement or re-skinning.
One of the real advantages of Selle Anatomica ownership is that many issues can be handled through parts, service, or repair rather than starting over with a new saddle. If you are not sure whether your saddle is repairable, send support photos of the issue.
In practice, B Stock usually means cosmetic variation first, but support conversations show that some riders also experience a firmer-than-expected ride feel.
What to expect: cosmetic variation does not necessarily mean a functional problem, finish details like rivet appearance may vary, and some B Stock saddles can feel stiffer than riders expect.
B Stock is best for riders who already know what model they want. If you want the lowest-risk purchase, standard stock is the safer choice. If you understand the product line and want value, B Stock can be a strong option.
WaterShed doesn't mean waterproof. The top of our WaterShed saddles repel water because of a special and expensive additive in the tanning mixture. Our bottom pieces of leather however, are veg, a type of leather that has no water repellent properties. If you get the bottom of the saddle wet, there is a chance water will seep in at the edges and the leather will stretch. We do not warrant leather failure due to excessive exposure to water.
If your saddle gets wet, loosen the bolt, remove all tension from the leather and let it dry naturally.
Selle Anatomica no longer applies waterproofing to our leather. Our Saddle Sauce brand of waterproofing should be applied to the bottom and raw edges of all saddles, especially if they are going to be ridden in any damp or wet weather. Never apply Saddle Sauce to the top of the leather, that is WaterShed and does not require treatment.
Saddle Sauce is an acrylic based formula that sits on top of the leather and prevents moisture from entering by creating a barrier. It does wear off, particularly where there is frequent rubbing on the saddle and must be reapplied at periodic intervals depending upon how much you ride, and how wet your climate is. Apply a thin layer, especially to the bottom and the raw leather edges, wipe off any excess with a soft, wet cloth and allow to dry at least 4 hours.
Do not use Proofide as it softens the leather. Do not use any waterproofing product that contains silicone or solvents intended to "condition" the leather.
- It is always wise to lift your weight off the saddle when going over bumps.
- Do not use a setback seatpost with more than 20mm of setback
- Never set the saddle all the way back on the rails. Leave at least ¾ inch of rail in front of the seatpost clamp.
- Use a seatpost with a 1½ inch (38mm) or longer clamp on the rails. Small, individual attachment points at 1 inch (25mm) or less put too much pressure on our rails.
Caveat - female riders sometimes find their lady parts and the front slot aren't well suited to each other. For women, soft tissue must fit inside the edges of the front of the slot. If this doesn't happen naturally, accommodation must be made for these women by widening the slot a bit. This is done with a sharp knife, a dremel or a large rounded file. It also makes sense to bevel the 90 degree edges of the slot at the same time.
- Black is our most durable leather. Due to the chemicals in the tanning solution and the methods we use for molding, black is our longest lasting leather. We recommend Black for anyone planning on touring.
- If you are planning to use our saddle for touring, upgrade one level from X to H.
- Frame 2 is superior to Frame 1 for touring. It is modular, lighter weight, and stronger. It can be repaired by you, on the go, if you have an accident and break a part.
- Closeout colors are not suitable for touring.
- All saddles require waterproofing on the bottom and raw edges.
